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Apr 23, 201411:25 AM
Happy Hour

All there is to sip and savor in New Orleans

Five Cheap Red Wines

Some grapes and the wines they make are available at lower prices than you might have imagined.

Remember those heady days of expensive Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon? Of course you do because they are still here. Lots of good juice. No end to high prices. That defies what you likely learned in Economics 101, plenty of availability normally equals low costs.

But this is wine we are dealing with. Economics only works as far as the name on the label, and when it’s a special name, like “Napa Valley,” you can throw out your old economics textbook.

Within the past week, one of the nation’s most celebrated wine retailers, Sherry-Lehmann in New York, told the chateau owners in Bordeaux to “wake up and smell the coffee.” The message: get your pricing in line with what the market wants to pay, or continue to significantly lose market share for that high-cost juice coming out of the Medoc neighborhood. Oh, and we, Sherry-Lehmann, do not intend to bring those wines to our shelves only to let them languish there because of just-OK quality and outlandish prices.

Then there’s the continuing fallout from the movie Sideways and the pinot noir grape. Prices of pinot noir wines have escalated thanks to demand, which is the way the economic model is supposed to work. Only point is, there is now more pinot noir on the shelves than at just about any other time in recent history. We are back to that backasswards plenty-of-product and high-prices model. Glad I don’t teach economics. I would stage lectures but no questions, please.

However, lucky for you and your love of red wine, there are reds with reasonable prices, in some cases downright cheap. And, again, lucky for you, you are living in the Golden Age of Wine which means that a lot of the wine out there in a veritable sea of fermented grape juice is good stuff. Price can still be a defining qualifier but you can also get some damn good wines for under $20, even under $15. Damn good!

Malbec

This meaty purple grape yields wine of strong structure and for many American wine drinkers, this is just their cup of …er…tea. Bold tannins and big alcohol seem to please the American palate, plus it does not hurt that these wines are often value-priced. I have friends who compete to see who can buy a Malbec from Argentina at the lowest price with the best quality.

Malbec is one of the prime five blending grapes used to make the great wines of Bordeaux. When the grape migrated to Argentina, local vintners there decided that it was just fine, thank you, to stand on its own. The volcanic soils and in some cases the altitude of the vineyards “softens” the grapes providing for something quite good even when enjoyed young.

The grape does inhabit one other region in France, Cahors, where it is also used solo.

Syrah

Ask any winemaker why the general wine drinking public is not beating a path to Syrah’s door, and he or she will shake the head and give you a big shoulder shrug. They just don’t get it.

Universally, winemakers love Syrah, or as the Australians know the grape, Shiraz. Big berries, not prone to disease or rot, even ripening within the cluster, and yielding lovely fruit with black berry notes. What’s not to like?

Only you can answer that question as the American wine buying public has made a determination that Syrah is not a darling. Winemakers who love the spice aspects of the wine and think it goes very well with a wide variety of cuisines are using Syrah in proprietary blends. They are creating wines where the backbone and forward fruit qualities of Syrah are featured in the wine, but not on the label.

Even the rising-in-popularity GSM blend — containing Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre — buries the Syrah reference in the middle of the title. Syrah has become the Rodney Daingerfield of grape varietals, getting no respect.

Tempranillo

The Spanish named this grape in allusion to the word, “temprano,” a reference to its habit of ripening earlier than most other red varietals. The Phoenicians were growing this grape on the Iberian Peninsula likely 1000 years before the birth of Christ.

While Tempranillo grows all over Spain, the Rioja region takes center stage with an outcome of sturdiness and ageability. Another region that can take a bow for the grape is to the west of Rioja, Ribera del Duero, where the grape is more commonly called Tinto Roriz or Aragonez. The Spanish name their grapes the way we have named streets when they cross Canal Street, same thoroughfare, different name.

Formerly, and in many cases still currently, Tempranillo wines were held back for long aging at the winery but lately we are seeing more young wines ready to be enjoyed on release.

Sangiovese

This Italian grape, whose name means “Blood of Jove,” is used all over Tuscany in a wide variety of wines at various price points. The inner beauty of Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile de Montepulciano can also be sensed in more common wines simply labeled Chianti. All are Sangiovese-based wines.

This is a very old grape, predating the 16th century, and its rich, sometimes chocolate, strawberry and spicy characteristics make Sangiovese an ideal companion to a wide variety of foods and cuisines.

Carmenere

Now almost the sole provenance of Chile, this grape was once one of the classic blending grapes of Bordeaux. Today, even importing this wine into the European Union is not allowed, and so some winemakers have changed the name to Grande Vidure, an ancient reference to the esteem in which the grape was once held in Europe.

While the grape was once thought lost to the European phylloxera (vine root disease caused by a louse) epidemic of the late 1800’s, Carmenere was merely hiding under the mistaken identity of being Merlot, which it very closely resembles in all aspects of aroma and taste.

So the point is that while you should drink as well as you can afford, these grapes and the wines they make are available to you at lower prices than you might have imagined. You will be drinking well and drinking inexpensively. Gotta’ like that. 
 

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Happy Hour

All there is to sip and savor in New Orleans

about

In New Orleans, when the subject is wine and spirits, it is very difficult to leave Tim McNally out of the discussion. He is considered one of the “go to” resources in the Crescent City for counsel and information about adult beverages and their place in the fabric of life in this great city.

 

Tim is the Wine and Spirits Editor, columnist and feature writer for New Orleans Magazine; the Wine and Spirits Editor and weekly columnist, Happy Hour, for www.MyNewOrleans.com; the Executive Editor and monthly features writer for Gulf Coast Wine + Dine Online; creator and editor of his own website, www.winetalknola.com; all in addition to his daily hosting duties on the radio program, The Dine, Wine and Spirits Show, on the air at WGSO – 990AM, every weekday, 3- 5 p.m, and streamed live on www.wgso.com.

 

Over the years, Tim has proved to be an informed interviewer, putting his guests at ease, and covering tactile and technical information so that even a novice can understand difficult agricultural and production concepts. Tim speaks with winemakers, wine and spirit ambassadors, distillers, authors, people who stage events and festivals, and takes questions from listeners and readers, all seamlessly blended together in a program that is unique in America.

 

Tim’s love of wine actually came about many years ago from his then wife-to-be, Brenda Maitland, a noted journalist in her own right, and together they have traveled to the major wine producing areas in the US and Europe, seeking first-hand information about beverages that give us all so much pleasure.

 

They were instrumental in the founding of the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience, a major national and international well-regarded festival of its type. They both continue to be involved with the planning and staging of this multi-venue, five-day event now over twenty years old.

 

Tim is also considered one of the foremost professional wine judges in the US, being invited to judge more than 11 wine competitions each year, including the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (the largest competition of American wines in the world, with more than 6,000 entries), the Riverside, CA International Wine Competition, San Francisco International Wine Competition, Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition, Indiana International Wine Competition, Sandestin, Florida Wine Festival Competition, the State of Michigan Wine Competition, the U.S. National Wine Competition, and the National Wine Competition of Portugal.

 

Tim is a guest lecturer to many local wine and dine organizations, and speaks each year to the senior class in the School of Hotel and Restaurant Management at Auburn University, Auburn, Alabama.

 

Staying abreast of the news of the wine and spirits world is a passion for Tim, and he is committed to sharing what he knows with his listeners and readers. “Doing something I love, with products that I truly enjoy, created by interesting people, coupling the experience with culinary excellence, and doing it all in the greatest city in America,” are the words Tim lives by.

 

It’s a good gig. 

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