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Jul 19, 201210:52 AM
Happy Hour

All there is to sip and savor in New Orleans

Seismic Shifts

Image Courtesy of Synthetic D, stock.xchng, 2007

Car manufacturers and dealers know that every one of us only have a limited number of purchases for their products in our lifetime. Restaurateurs likewise respect that we can only eat dinner about once a day. And the folks at RIM who made the Blackberry cell phone the gold standard not that long ago are learning the hard lesson that in order to stay successful, you have to be both innovative and flexible.

The real world is not a static place. The sands are always shifting under your feet. Consumers are fickle, their decisions are short-term as to how much and how often they can consume.

In the beverage world, it's worse than dog-eat-dog (that may not be a good analogy when it comes to adult beverages). It's all very much a case of what do I want at this moment, what is available to me right now, and what are all the choices? Does a cocktail seem about right? And should I go with a "clear" spirit - vodka, gin, rum? Or maybe something a bit darker, like dark rum, bourbon, tequila? Maybe even a beer, or a wine. Or something a bit more exotic like cognac, cachaça or pisco.

Here's the dilemma for the manufacturers of all of those adult beverages: you won't be buying them all at one moment. Unless you plan on having one kick-ass party. Usually when you are thirsty, there is one winner and many categories of losers. And essentially when the losers are not on a roll with you, that is not good news for their bottom line.

In the economics of this world, it can get particularly serious for spirits manufacturers. But it may not be for the reasons you think. You see, with spirits, the manufacturing can actually be practically unlimited. The manufacturers pretty much make as much as the market is demanding whenever it needs to be done. The stills are operating around the clock anyway. Quantity of raw product, except in rare instances, is virtually unlimited.

On the other hand, with wine, you only have one chance a year to make the best of the harvest, and then pay strict attention in the winery as the juice is vinified and aged. Screw up any phase and the entire operation will, just like the Saints of old, wait till next year. By the way, that waiting will be done without the guy - or the team - that messed up.

Which brings us again to the all-important consumers' purchasing decisions.  Here is where the seismic shift has taken place, and some members of the wine community have missed the zang. They are still zinging.

Looks to me like many winemakers in California still think they are hanging the moon each evening, then sticking around so the sun can both rise and set over their vineyards. They have not quite come to fully appreciate the fact that their important potential market, new, young consumers, ages 21-30, are just as likely to reach for a cocktail as opposed to a glass of pinot noir or a beer.

Winemakers have not realized that their competitors are probably not the vineyards next door, but the distillery a continent away. And that the proper method for pulling a cork from a bottle may not be as important as creating a balanced cocktail comprised of five or six diverse ingredients.

They have not only missed a seismic shift in an important market demographic, they still have not recognized it. Masking this grasp on the realities of the marketplace is a coming shortage of wines due to lower harvest yields in 2010 and 2011. They may, however, experience a startling Rip Van Winkle moment when the anticipated high-yield 2012 harvest hits the sorting tables. Plenty of product chasing fewer consumers than they expected.

This was all brought “home” to me on a recent visit to Sonoma County. Great place to make all kinds of fine wines. All-day-long wine talk with people who are proud of their efforts, and rightly so. Then we sit down in the evening at a fine restaurant to enjoy more conviviality and some beverages. I order a French 75 cocktail, a drink that just about every bar in New Orleans is adept at constructing.

Not only was the waiter confused by my order, with the same feeling hitting the guy behind the bar, but winemakers at my table were asking a lot of questions. And they were pretty basic questions about cocktails. It’s good to ask, of course, and I answered as best I could; but they don’t have a good grasp on what their audience in the hinterlands is drinking, and it’s not always wine.

This was further brought home by someone at a winery who indicated to me that he had, surprise of surprises, just created a new bartenders’ mix that everyone in the industry (out there) was going crazy over. When I asked him what was in it, it did not sound all that complicated to me, nor did it sound particularly innovative. But at least he was trying.

Then I ran into a bartender in Healdsburg who had created his own Bloody Mary mix and was marketing it. He also was a very good bartender. He seemed oddly out of place, which means quite knowledgeable about a wide range of cocktails, for what I had been experiencing. I asked him if he was a native Sonoma County guy.

He was not, and had done a lot of traveling around. So where did he learn about cocktails and how to make them properly? Time well-spent in New Orleans was the answer.

Big surprise there. Not!

Point is, for winemakers, wake up! The market has changed. Educate your audience. Get them excited about what you do and where you do it. Find additional uses for your products, like cocktail ingredients. It’s not denigrating your product, it’s expanding the usefulness. It’s becoming more market-friendly.

It’s reaching the audience where they want to be reached and when. Otherwise resign yourself to being a great accompaniment to a meal. Know that, before the first course, some mixologist spins gold from high-proof ingredients.


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Happy Hour

All there is to sip and savor in New Orleans


In New Orleans, when the subject is wine and spirits, it is very difficult to leave Tim McNally out of the discussion. He is considered one of the “go to” resources in the Crescent City for counsel and information about adult beverages and their place in the fabric of life in this great city.


Tim is the Wine and Spirits Editor, columnist and feature writer for New Orleans Magazine; the Wine and Spirits Editor and weekly columnist, Happy Hour, for www.MyNewOrleans.com; creator and editor of his own website, www.winetalknola.com; all in addition to his daily hosting duties on the radio program, The Dine, Wine and Spirits Show, on the air at WGSO – 990AM, every weekday, 3- 5 p.m, and streamed live on www.wgso.com.


Over the years, Tim has proved to be an informed interviewer, putting his guests at ease, and covering tactile and technical information so that even a novice can understand difficult agricultural and production concepts. Tim speaks with winemakers, wine and spirit ambassadors, distillers, authors, people who stage events and festivals, and takes questions from listeners and readers, all seamlessly blended together in a program that is unique in America.


Tim’s love of wine actually came about many years ago from his then wife-to-be, Brenda Maitland, a noted journalist in her own right, and together they have traveled to the major wine producing areas in the US and Europe, seeking first-hand information about beverages that give us all so much pleasure.


They were instrumental in the founding of the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience, a major national and international well-regarded festival of its type. They both continue to be involved with the planning and staging of this multi-venue, five-day event now over twenty years old.


Tim is also considered one of the foremost professional wine judges in the US, being invited to judge more than 11 wine competitions each year, including the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (the largest competition of American wines in the world, with more than 6,000 entries), the Riverside, CA International Wine Competition, San Francisco International Wine Competition, Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition, Indiana International Wine Competition, Sandestin, Florida Wine Festival Competition, the State of Michigan Wine Competition, the U.S. National Wine Competition, and the National Wine Competition of Portugal.


Tim is a guest lecturer to many local wine and dine organizations, and speaks each year to the senior class in the School of Hotel and Restaurant Management at Auburn University, Auburn, Alabama.


Staying abreast of the news of the wine and spirits world is a passion for Tim, and he is committed to sharing what he knows with his listeners and readers. “Doing something I love, with products that I truly enjoy, created by interesting people, coupling the experience with culinary excellence, and doing it all in the greatest city in America,” are the words Tim lives by.


It’s a good gig. 




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