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Oct 16, 201309:45 AM
Happy Hour

All there is to sip and savor in New Orleans

Harvest Report and the Folly of Vintage

flutist hu, stock.xchng, 2006

Around here right now we are all about cooler temperatures and football scores. There seems to be a new spring to our steps as we awaken to temps we have not enjoyed since April, humidity that no longer approaches the “swimming on the sidewalk” levels, and we bid a fond adieu to a hurricane season that never materialized, despite dire predictions which emanated from the experts in Boulder, Colo., last February.

About none of that are we feeling badly or cheated.

When you add the win-factor that our local gridiron heroes are racking up, well, heck, why would anyone live anywhere else, at least for the moment?

One of those anywhere else places right now is Wine Country. Everyone in the wine business out west is in harvest and crush. All of the hard work and long days in the fields are about to be validated as the ripe grapes are picked and taken to the winery for the next step in their young lives in the journey to your glass.

So how’s it going? A bit all over the map, thank you. 2013 will be another uneven year depending on the location of the vineyard and the grape varietal. What it won’t be is a complete waste of time and effort, but more about that later.

Napa Valley is working through the tail end of its harvest season and there is not a winemaker in the entire zip code that does not have a smile on his face. “Practically perfect” is the technical term for describing this season and this harvest. Okay so that’s not a technical term, but it is what’s going on.

Beautiful fruit that develops slowly, with balance and character, will result in wines that are approachable young but could be good for a longer aging time in your collection. Mark this down on your to-do list: buy 2013 Napa Valley wines, both reds and whites. Go ahead and make that note while you are thinking about it.

Washington’s Red Mountain region, also famous for excellent and approachable cabernet sauvignons, has a fine year at hand, although matters are just a bit sketchy right now. Picking is going on every day, and the newly-arrived cooler weather means slower ripening. Not a bad thing, except coming very soon will be the rains. Rain during harvest is not a blessing. It is definitely a curse. Wet weather dilutes the juice of the grapes during the crush stage of winemaking. Also since wine clusters are reasonably tightly-packed with fruit, sometimes the water gets trapped in the cluster and mold or even rot can develop. They are watching the skies very diligently in Washington State. I have no idea what they are watching in Washington, D.C. No idea. 

Willamette Valley in Oregon was on its way to a fabulous year. Everything that could go right since March did go right. The red fruit, notably pinot noir, was setting on the vine with solid character and there was lots of pretty fruit. Right up until about three weeks ago. Cooler weather set in. Ripening went to a stand-still stage, and the warmth never returned.

Proper levels of sugar, essential for fermentation, were not reached. The choices were to leave the fruit out there, hoping for the return of warmer temps but without the annual incursion of tens of thousands of hungry birds, or the winemaker can bring the partially-ripened fruit into the winery and start working magic.

Both paths are being followed in Oregon. Some winemakers opted for early picking and initiation of the winemaking equivalent of CPR. Others rolled the dice and left the fruit out in the field to, hopefully, gain a bit more maturity, in the process erecting nets across acres of expansive vineyards to discourage the birds from eating all the profits.

But here’s the point: It is not always true, as many winemakers like to boast, that “wine is made in the vineyard.” In just about every case, with rare exceptions, wine is made in the winery, with skilled human intervention. It is true that you can’t take bad fruit and make great wine, neither can you take not-quite-great fruit and make good wine without skilled successful human input.

Chemical and natural additives, processes, temperature-techniques, time management, yeast and racking procedures all contribute in the winery what nature may have short-changed in the vineyard. Modern winemaking demands consistency and quality. Waiting and hoping for good things to happen in the fields is not living in the real world.

There is simply too much money at stake, too many variables, and, always keep in mind, you only get one chance a year. You can’t click your heels and cross your fingers in the hopes that matters will go well. While it’s not a romantic notion, the truth is that winemaking is dirty, grueling and a driven business. The “I Love Lucy” stomping on a vat of grapes image is not real when winemaking is approached as a quantity business providing livelihood for entire families and professionals.

That does not make wine less desirable when approached from the product level. We consumers are honestly surrounded by more good juice now than at any other time in the history of the world.

And what this really boils down to is, in many cases, the flattening of the quality curve with many vintages not showing a lot of difference from previous vintages. Even with many of those vintages that may be “different,” that difference was obtained through the use of modern machinery, techniques and chemicals.

It’s the reality of a very big, very competitive worldwide business.

I’m as romantic as the next guy. But to have a fine glass of wine at a reasonable cost, why should I care if the business of winemaking has romance? I can furnish my own heat. 

Just ask my wife. On further consideration, maybe I would prefer you did not do that.

                          -30-

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Happy Hour

All there is to sip and savor in New Orleans

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In New Orleans, when the subject is wine and spirits, it is very difficult to leave Tim McNally out of the discussion. He is considered one of the “go to” resources in the Crescent City for counsel and information about adult beverages and their place in the fabric of life in this great city.

 

Tim is the Wine and Spirits Editor, columnist and feature writer for New Orleans Magazine; the Wine and Spirits Editor and weekly columnist, Happy Hour, for www.MyNewOrleans.com; the Executive Editor and monthly features writer for Gulf Coast Wine + Dine Online; creator and editor of his own website, www.winetalknola.com; all in addition to his daily hosting duties on the radio program, The Dine, Wine and Spirits Show, on the air at WGSO – 990AM, every weekday, 3- 5 p.m, and streamed live on www.wgso.com.

 

Over the years, Tim has proved to be an informed interviewer, putting his guests at ease, and covering tactile and technical information so that even a novice can understand difficult agricultural and production concepts. Tim speaks with winemakers, wine and spirit ambassadors, distillers, authors, people who stage events and festivals, and takes questions from listeners and readers, all seamlessly blended together in a program that is unique in America.

 

Tim’s love of wine actually came about many years ago from his then wife-to-be, Brenda Maitland, a noted journalist in her own right, and together they have traveled to the major wine producing areas in the US and Europe, seeking first-hand information about beverages that give us all so much pleasure.

 

They were instrumental in the founding of the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience, a major national and international well-regarded festival of its type. They both continue to be involved with the planning and staging of this multi-venue, five-day event now over twenty years old.

 

Tim is also considered one of the foremost professional wine judges in the US, being invited to judge more than 11 wine competitions each year, including the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (the largest competition of American wines in the world, with more than 6,000 entries), the Riverside, CA International Wine Competition, San Francisco International Wine Competition, Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition, Indiana International Wine Competition, Sandestin, Florida Wine Festival Competition, the State of Michigan Wine Competition, the U.S. National Wine Competition, and the National Wine Competition of Portugal.

 

Tim is a guest lecturer to many local wine and dine organizations, and speaks each year to the senior class in the School of Hotel and Restaurant Management at Auburn University, Auburn, Alabama.

 

Staying abreast of the news of the wine and spirits world is a passion for Tim, and he is committed to sharing what he knows with his listeners and readers. “Doing something I love, with products that I truly enjoy, created by interesting people, coupling the experience with culinary excellence, and doing it all in the greatest city in America,” are the words Tim lives by.

 

It’s a good gig. 

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