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Jan 9, 201410:21 AM
Haute Plates

Our weekly blog on the New Orleans fine dining scene

Restaurant Review: Marti’s

The restaurant on Dumaine Street is worth a visit.

PHOTO COURTESY OF martisnola.com

I never dined at Marti's during its first incarnation. My first meal there was at Peristyle, during Anne Kearney's tenure. It was a more intimate place then, or at least that's how I remember it. While I'm sure the change in décor brings the place more in line with what Marti's looked like in the 1970s, the Art Deco touches leave me a little cold.

Fortunately, the food and the service were more than enough to make up for any discomfort I felt about the renovation. We ate early, which meant we were the first table seated on a Wednesday night, and that's how it stayed for about an hour. It definitely felt empty, but not uncomfortably so.

That may have had something to do with the service, which was attentive but not intrusive. We didn't wait for water or bread, and I felt neither rushed nor ignored during the meal. The place hasn't been open six months, and it says a good bit that the service was this polished.

The food was excellent, too, judging by the Marcona almonds we had with a cocktail and the fried octopus and roasted oysters we shared to start things off. My friend had the blue crab bisque, which he enjoyed, and while my “field greens” salad wasn't anything to write home about, it was good. The scallops in a Cioppino-style broth were another hit, as was the grilled quail I chose as an entree.

Marti's is the sort of place where you have a hard time ordering because there are several options for each course that you know you'll regret not ordering. I feel this more acutely, I think, because it's difficult for me to get out for a meal at night, and I'm not sure when I'll make it back to Marti's. Soon, I hope, because I'd very much like to try the hanger steak, the pan-fried speckled trout and the grilled duck heart sausages, among other things.

Marti's is located at 1041 Dumaine St., at the corner of Rampart; they're open daily, from 5 p.m. until midnight. Call (504) 522-5478 to make a reservation or visit martisnola.com.

 

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Haute Plates

Our weekly blog on the New Orleans fine dining scene

about

Robert D. Peyton was born at Ochsner Hospital and, apart from four years in Tennessee for college and three years in Baton Rouge for law school, has lived here his entire life. He is a strong believer in the importance of food to our local culture and in the importance of our local food culture, generally. He has practiced law since 1994, and began writing about food on his website, www.appetites.us, in 1999. He mainly wrote about partying that year, obviously.

In 2006, New Orleans Magazine named Appetites the best food blog in New Orleans. The choice was made relatively easy due to the fact that Appetites was, at the time, the only food blog in New Orleans.

He began writing the Restaurant Insider column for New Orleans Magazine in 2007 and has been published in St. Charles Avenue, Louisiana Life and New Orleans Homes and Lifestyles magazines. He is the only person he knows personally who has been interviewed in GQ magazine, albeit for calling Alan Richman a nasty name. He is not proud of that, incidentally. (Yes, he is.)

Robert’s maternal grandmother is responsible for his love of good food, and he has never since had fried chicken or homemade biscuits as good as hers. He developed his curiosity about restaurant cooking in part from the venerable PBS cooking show "Great Chefs" and has an extensive collection of cookbooks, many of which do not require coloring, and some of which have not been defaced.

Robert lives in Mid-City with his wife Eve and their three children, and is fond of receiving comments and emails. Please humor him.

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