Mar 13, 201410:16 AM
Haute Plates

Our weekly blog on the New Orleans fine dining scene

Not Quite Mourning Morning Call

On the Fat City beignet institution, which is closing its doors.

Morning Call's Fat City location.

March 13, 2014.

Dear Diary,

I totally don’t care that Morning Call is leaving its Metairie location, even though I went there with my parents when I was a kid and have memories of the mirrors and the stools and wearing more powdered sugar out of the place than I managed to get onto my doughnuts. I totally don’t care.

The place had only been there since 1974 anyway, and it’s not like that’s a long time as these things are considered. Honestly I feel worse for Fat City, or as I like to call it, “Fat City.” Yes, Diary, I do pronounce the quotes.

There’s a Morning Call at the Casino in City Park; I could walk to it from my house if I had the stamina and didn’t have a car. I love that I can pick up a few orders of beignets and cafés au lait for the family on a weekend. Hell, I may run by before I take my son to school tomorrow. It’s that close, Diary!

Still, I guess if I’m honest, Diary, I do have some fondness for the Fat City location. I remember buying newspapers and magazines at the shop next door when I was a teenager. There may have been other places to find the Village Voice at the time, but I wasn’t aware of them. Then when I went soccer-crazy I could pick up 4-4-2 there and read about European leagues I still couldn’t watch on television.

Also, Diary, Fat City still has Kanno, my favorite sushi restaurant, and Korea House which used to be called Seoul, and BSI Comics is there, and Casablanca too. Perhaps I, too am capable of nostalgia?

I am reminded of a poem, Diary:

Nature's first green is gold, Her hardest hue to hold. Her early leaf's a flower; But only so an hour. Then leaf subsides to leaf. So Eden sank to grief, So dawn goes down to day. Nothing gold beignet.

I think that’s how it goes, anyway. Until next time, Diary, Adieu!

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Haute Plates

Our weekly blog on the New Orleans fine dining scene

about

Robert D. Peyton was born at Ochsner Hospital and, apart from four years in Tennessee for college and three years in Baton Rouge for law school, has lived here his entire life. He is a strong believer in the importance of food to our local culture and in the importance of our local food culture, generally. He has practiced law since 1994, and began writing about food on his website, www.appetites.us, in 1999. He mainly wrote about partying that year, obviously.

In 2006, New Orleans Magazine named Appetites the best food blog in New Orleans. The choice was made relatively easy due to the fact that Appetites was, at the time, the only food blog in New Orleans.

He began writing the Restaurant Insider column for New Orleans Magazine in 2007 and has been published in St. Charles Avenue, Louisiana Life and New Orleans Homes and Lifestyles magazines. He is the only person he knows personally who has been interviewed in GQ magazine, albeit for calling Alan Richman a nasty name. He is not proud of that, incidentally. (Yes, he is.)

Robert’s maternal grandmother is responsible for his love of good food, and he has never since had fried chicken or homemade biscuits as good as hers. He developed his curiosity about restaurant cooking in part from the venerable PBS cooking show "Great Chefs" and has an extensive collection of cookbooks, many of which do not require coloring, and some of which have not been defaced.

Robert lives in Mid-City with his wife Eve and their three children, and is fond of receiving comments and emails. Please humor him.

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